Laser hair removal is the process by which melanin in the hair follicle is targeted and neutralized by a concentrated beam of light (laser) or intense pulsed light therapy (IPL). “That light energy is converted to heat, which permanently damages and destroys hair follicles,” board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, M.D. told us about laser hair removal.

The light is actually targeting hair that’s in the active growth phase, which is also called anagen phase. Once the hair has been “killed” it won’t grow back in the next growth cycle. 

However not all hair in a given area is in the same part of the growth cycle, as some will be in catagen or telogen. This is why not all hairs are effectively neutralized in one session, and will need consistent treatments in order to work.

And as I’ve noted, the light also targets the melanin pigment in the hairs. This means that some lasers and IPLs aren’t suitable for those with darker skin tones, as the light beam may end up targeting the skin rather than the hair. This can cause damage and scarring. Always look for options that are noted as safe and effective for those with darker skin tones (and if you have any questions about that, find a professional you trust who can help you). 

This also means that these devices aren’t super effective at blonde or red hair, as the laser isn’t able to register the light pigment. Thus, an at-home laser might not be worth your investment. 

We discuss these caveats throughout the article, but it’s an important caveat to bring up straight away.